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alarm
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Much the same as an alarm clock, an alarm
watch will alert the wearer with beeps at a pre-set time.
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analog
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A watch that shows the time using hour and minute hands.
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automatic winging
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See self winding
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bezel
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The metal ring that is around the watch crystal of
directly under it. Can be made of gold, gold plate or stainless steel.
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calendar
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The part of the watch
that indicates day of the week and/or month. Can be displayed via a
"cut-out" in the dial or through the use of sub-dials.
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chronograph
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Watch with a built in stop watch style device. There are many different
types of chronographs. Some may show elapsed minutes or even hours
as well as elapsed seconds. Chronograph & chronometer are not
the same thing. The words are not interchangeable.
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chronometer
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refers to Swiss watches that meet
standards set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control. Due to these standards,
chronometers are very high grade watches.
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crown
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Part of watch that is turned to change the time, date, etc. also used to
wind the watch. Sometimes referred to as the stem.
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crystal
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The transparent cover over a watch dial - usually made of glass, crystal,
or plastic.
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dial
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The "face" of the watch - will have
numbers or other markers to denote the hour & minute
positions. Watches can also have sub dials - which may indicate
seconds or some other special function of that particular watch
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digital
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Displays the time through numerical digits rather than
through a dial and hands.
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diver's
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A watch that is water resistant to 200M.
They have screw-on crowns and backs to increase water tightness. Vintage
diver's watches will also have a metal bracelet - not a leather
strap.
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doctor's
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Watch with a separate seconds dial or center
seconds dial that is large for easy reading when taking a pulse.
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escapement
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Controls the rotation of
the wheels and movement of the hands in a mechanical movement.
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flyback hand
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A hand that springs back to zero - used
on chronographs to record lapsed time.
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GF
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Gold filled
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gold filled
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Watch cases made from layers of gold with brass or other base metal in
between.
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gold plated
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Light layer of gold electronically plated over brass or other type of
metal. Not as long lasting as gold filled.
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integrated bracelet
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A watch band that is incorporated into &
part of the
design of the case. It is not a separate piece.
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jewels
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Part of a watch movement that act as bearings for moving parts.
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LCD
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liquid crystal display
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liquid-crystal display
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Shows the time
electronically using a liquid suspended between two transparent layers. LCD watches have quartz movements.
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lugs
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Extensions on either
end of a watch case to which the band or bracelet is attached.
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mechanical movement
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Vintage watch movements are powered by
a mainspring and a balance wheel. Mechanical movements must be wound -
either manually or via a self winding mechanism - on a regular
basis. They are not battery operated.
- movement
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The inner mechanisms which control the
watch's hands, calendars, sub-dials, alarms, etc.. Movements are either mechanical or quartz.
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- NOS
- New Old Stock - items that remained in stores unsold & in
stock. They are as they were shipped from the factory.
While MIB (mint in box) items may have been purchased & never
used, NOS were never even purchased.
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rotor
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Part of a self-winding movement which pivots in conjunction with the
movement of the wearer's wrist - thus winding the mainspring.
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self winding
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A watch that is wound by the motion of the wearer's arm instead of by
winding the stem. If an self winding watch is not worn for a
few days, it will wind
down. This type of watch is also referred to as automatic winding
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shock resistant
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According to U.S. government regulation, a
watch must be able to withstand to impact equal to being dropped to a wood floor
from a height of 3 feet in order to be labeled shock resistant.
- sub-dial
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Smaller dial located on the watch face or
main dial used for such purposes as displaying seconds or dates. A
watch can have no sub-dials or several sub-dials.
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tank watch
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Commonly used to refer to a rectangular mans watch.
Originally used to refer to a specific watch by Cartier which
incorporated design elements resembling WWI tank tracks.
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water resistant
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A watch that is
moderately waterproof & will withstand unexpected exposure to water
for a very short time (such as splashes). Does not always mean the watch
is submersible.
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