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to the large number of uniquely different dials listed on the site, it
may take a few minutes to find the exact match for your watch. In
order to make the process as smooth & "painless" as
possible, you'll find we've organized the site in to several different categories
- each divided in to sub-categories.
The first thing you
need to determine is which type of watch do you have.
 | Is it a mechanical
watch that you need to wind manually?
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 | Is it an automatic
watch that is self-winding? OR |
 | Is it an electronic
watch that uses a battery? |
Once you've determined
what type of watch it is, you need to look at the shape of the
dial. Both the manual
dials category & the automatic
dials category are divided as follows:
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The shape categories may be further divided by color. We've tried to
keep this as simple as possible too. We've kept it to a minimum -
silver or black. Black dials will only have black dials
listed. However, you'll find several stray white dials & maybe
even a gold dial or two tossed in among the silver.
As we grow & add more dials may may find need to add more
sub-division. Some day those strays may have their own page but
for now, there are too few of them to warrant creating more pages &
more confusion.

Likewise, because we
have very few electronic watch dials (currently less than 10 styles
listed) there is no need to sub-divide that category (not yet, anyway).
Of course, if you have an unusual watch dial
you're really in luck. We've separated those in to their own category.
So, if your dial has, for example, a picture of a rifle or a Masonic
emblem you'll find it here.
This category also includes "odd" colors such as purple,
bright orange & blue. |
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For All Dials
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Dial Measurements
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OK, you've determined what type of watch you have and you know the shape
& even the color. What's next?
First you need to remove the dial from your watch. If you are
not familiar with this procedure my suggestion is to take it to someone
who is. Its' actually very simple but if you've never done it
before you do not want to make a mistake on a watch you plan on
using. Any local jeweler or watch repairman will be able to help
you. Another option might be a local antique shop owner or perhaps
someone at your local flea market or swap meet who buys or sells watches
regularly.
Once the dial is off, you'll need to measure your watch dial.
Because watches tend to be small (relatively speaking) this needs to be
done with a ruler that will give you a reading in millimeters
(mm). If you don't have one & can't easily beg, borrow or
steal one, they are both cheap & easy to obtain at your local craft
store.
For round dials you'll only need to measure the diameter (measure
straight across the dial). For all others, you'll need both height
& width. Measure both just to be sure on square dials.
It may LOOK square but when you measure it may just be 2 mm longer in
one direction or the other - making it rectangular. Better safe
than sorry.
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All About "Posts"
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Last, but definitely not least, you'll
also need to note the position of the dial feet [posts]. OK! OK! If this
is all new to you, you're probably ready to close this window &
start looking in to dial
refinishing. Right?
Now, just hang in there
a few more minutes. This is easy! I promise. If my wife can
"get it" - you can too! Besides, I've got pictures to
help.
Dial posts are nothing
more than the little studs or "feet" on the back of the dial
that mount it onto the watch movement. You just need to measure the
distance |
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| In this picture, I am measuring from the left
edge of one post to the left edge of the other post. It
measures 19.5mm.
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DO NOT measure between
the posts! By measuring that way you will eliminate
the thickness of the actual posts. You can see in the photo that
the posts are each about 3/4 of a mm wide. By eliminating
them you will have messed up the measurement by about 1.5mm.
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You
also need to note the position of the dial posts on the dial. I have
listed post positions by using the position of the hour hand on a watch
to determine the position. These positions are determined with the dial
facing up. If your post is at the top centered, it is at 12:00.
If the post is halfway between the 3 and 4 hour markers, then the
position is 3:30. Trying to read this makes it seem complicated at
first, but look at the picture. It's really simple!
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Now, that's' all you need to know! That wasn't so bad - was it?

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Once you start looking around the web site, you'll realize that many of
the dials will interchange with each other. In other words, most likely,
there will be more than one style that fits your watch.
Your best bet may be to
find your exact match for the dial you already have. But if you
are willing to spend the time, you may find a replacement dial in a
different color (black instead of gold), with a different finish (maybe linen)
or something completely different
from what you have now.
Here are a few
examples:
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This beat-up old dial was in a watch that had a cracked crystal.
Years of exposure completely ruined it. Within minutes I found at least
2 dials that are perfect replacements for it. Neither is a
cosmetically exact match. NOPE - not even the white one! Look
close! There are no "cross-hairs" on the sub seconds dial of
the original. But, both are the same size, have the same post
measurements & position & both have the same sub-seconds dial.
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This dial is scratches,
faded & stained. I'd like to say it couldn't get much worse
but the truth is I've seen much worse. Again, neither is an exact
cosmetic match but both have the same measurements, the same post
positions & the same second hand placement.
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A Few Things To Remember

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 | Gold dial markers
will be listed as "yellow". |
 | Silver dial markers
will be listed as "white". |
 | "Luminous"
on dials (glow in the dark dots or numbers) will be "dead"
from age. |
 | Luminous may also be
yellowed from age. |
 | Some dials that say
"Shock-Absorber" may be interchangeable with some that
don't.* |
 | Some dials that show
a "jewel count" (such as 17J) may be interchangeable with
some that don't. |
 | If the measurement,
post positions & locations & placement of second hands match
yours it should be a replacement. |
 | If in doubt ask. |
 | If you need help
ask. |
 | If all else fails or
if you are now totally confused you can always send
us the dial.
*You will notice that many Benrus dials are marked Shock absorber.
This was their version of Incabloc. They added the shock absorber
feature to their movements and slightly changed the model number.
You can replace some of the shock absorber dials with unmarked
dials. |
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